Archive for the ‘Digital Photography’ Category

Makeshift Tripods and Such

Wednesday, November 18th, 2009

Taking impromptu photos of indoor still life can be accomplished with the help of makeshift mounts or stabilization. Wide angle lenses or adapters can offer more framing options as well. In this first example, I used the Opteka .45x wide angle adapter (on an Olympus C-8080) and pressed the face of it up against the glass of the display case. This allowed me to get enough depth of field to get good results (by making shutter speed less of a concern). The tricky part of this is getting the correct angle to compose the image when the angle is restricted by the plane you’re anchored against.

Maritime Museum Display

Maritime Museum Display

Another Museum Display

Another Museum Display

Here’s one where I just set the camera on the table – exposure time over 3 seconds! Helps to shoot in RAW mode as well (yes, I’m one of them).

Table Centerpiece

Table Centerpiece

Star Wars display at the Science Museum of Minnesota, Canon Rebel XTi/Sigma 18-50 f2.8. The Sigma 10-20mm would have been nice for this one.

Millenium Falcon Model

Millenium Falcon Model - 20mm (32mm w/CF), f8 1/10 sec

R2D2

R2D2 - 31mm (50mm w/CF), f10 1/8 sec

Star Destroyer Model

Star Destroyer Model - 18mm (29mm w/CF), f22 1/2 sec

TIE Fighter - 18mm, f22 1.3 secs

TIE Fighter Model - 18mm (29mm w/CF), f22 1.3 secs

TIE Fighter Wing Detail

TIE Fighter Wing Detail - 18mm (29mm w/CF), f8 1.3 secs

Remote Model - 18mm, f8 1/8 sec

Remote Model - 18mm (29mm w/CF), f8 1/8 sec

Cheap Wide Angle Adapter For Olympus C-8080

Tuesday, November 17th, 2009

When your choices for a fisheye lens are cost-prohibitive (this lens would be nice), re-purposing a point-and-shoot becomes an attractive option. The Opteka .45x wide-angle adapter saves the day.

Below, Sigma 10mm fisheye for Canon SLR $699, Opteka .45x wide-angle adapter $29 (for Olympus C-8080, search for your particular camera model – there are numerous models supported) and a couple sample images taken with the Olympus/Opteka combo. On the cropped Canon body the Sigma comes out to 16mm actual focal length, the Olympus with 28mm x .45 comes to 12.6 (call it 13) mm. Also, don’t overlook the macro capability, this adapter allows some VERY close focusing. See below images for the caveat.

Sigma 10mm Diagonal Fisheye

Sigma 10mm Fisheye

Opteka .45x Wide-angle Adapter (For Olympus C-8080)

Opteka .45x Wide-angle Adapter (For Olympus C-8080)

Duluth Harbor

Duluth Lift Bridge

Duluth Lift Bridge

Duluth Lift Bridge

Duluth Harbor From Enger Tower Park

Duluth Harbor From Enger Tower Park

One limitation of this adapter, at least on my C-8080, is that when using it at full wide angle (which is where you want to use it 99.9999% of the time), the image sensor sees the edges of the adapter, making cropping or extreme vignetting necessary. Do note though that the above image is cropped to 3:2 aspect, whereas the following images are the native 4:3. There is also some significant chromatic aberration added. I use these settings in Lightroom to compensate:

Chromatic Aberration Adjustment

Chromatic Aberration Adjustment in Lightroom

Uncropped Wide Angle Image

Uncropped Wide Angle Image

Using vignetting to hide the adapter edges

Using vignetting to hide the adapter edges

Centerpiece Close-Up

Centerpiece Close-Up

The Daaaawwwwg

The Daaaawwwwg

Photography Fun

Wednesday, August 27th, 2008

I saw an image on the web today that gave me the idea to use this very short tripod I have, try about 3 inches tall, to place my camera places I can’t get, or capture unusual angles.

Rocks

Rocks

Adobe Lightroom It Is

Monday, August 18th, 2008

Lightroom made a believer out of me. There are a couple factors in its favor that don’t entirely have to do with its feature set, one is the $99 educational buy I qualify for as a homeschooler, the other is it’s performance on less-than-bleeding-edge hardware. For right now my MDD 1.25 dually has to do the job, and Lightroom officially runs on it and can get the job done. Beyond that the loupe is the only thing from Aperture that I’m jealous of, but at least the RGB values are displayed and dynamically follow the cursor in Lightroom. The main selling point beyond that is that it seems to be a more transparent and less demanding front-end to Photoshop, it’s just easier to relegate it to being a “pro” RAW converter to replace the Camera RAW plug-in, and skip all the library features. “Fill light” rules! (UPDATE 3/18/10) I take back my narrow-minded view of the product and will say that I use the library features as much as the rest of it.

Lightroom

Thoughts on Aperture vs. Lightroom

Thursday, July 10th, 2008

I haven’t spent a ton of time with these applications, but after some productive use of them thought I’d offer these observations; both seem way too bloated and clumsy, really what I think would get the job done is just a more robust RAW import tool for Photoshop, designed to be just that – the front door to Photoshop. Being able to browse a group of photos that may have something in common i.e. hard-to-get white balance shot in fluorescent lighting or some other odd environment, where you want to be able to copy the settings from one and rapidly apply to all the others en masse is nice, but I don’t need [yet] another black hole to store my photos or even a database of previews of my photos in, I just need a robust RAW access point for Photoshop. But I think Lightroom wins here as far as easily dropping in images from a shoot, processing them and then just deleting them (source files included if you wish.) That’s close to a transparent front end for Photoshop.
As far as GUIs and such, Lightroom feels more like Elements than Photoshop – the interface kind of has that dumbed-down feel, too much navigation garb that gets in the way. But I’ll give it this; it will install and run on my [ancient] Mirrored-drive door G4, and with patience gets the job done whereas Aperture has to be hacked to even install and then performance is decidedly not.
Here is an image processed first with just Camera RAW in Photoshop CS, and lots of fiddling with layers and screening and such to lighten up the grass and trees in the foreground, 10 minutes worth at least (well, okay, 5 minutes.) Now compare that to about 1 minute in Lightroom and only a noise filter pass (Noise Ninja) in Photoshop.

Image Camera RAW

Photoshop Camera RAW

Lightroom

Lightroom

Wascal Wabbit!

Saturday, May 31st, 2008

While on walk-about I spotted this little guy.

List Of Highly Rated Lenses for Canon EOS Cameras

Friday, May 2nd, 2008

I found this list which could be helpful in making a decision on a lens purchase.

A Kid Behind The Camera – #1

Friday, April 18th, 2008

Amazing things can happen when your kids get a hold of the camera.

Me and my book

Free Photo EXIF Tools

Thursday, April 10th, 2008

This app came in handy to address the dreaded 010101 file date issue that you get from dead batteries :~)

Digital Photography & Workflow Thoughts – Part 4

Wednesday, April 9th, 2008

I was reminded on one of my own rules to live by when it comes to principles of use of a digital camera when I put my Olympus C730UZ into the hands of my 9 year old, so while it was fresh in my mind I figured I’d relay some observations and opinions about some points to ponder.

DSLR

1. Spend plenty on large denominations of storage media whether CF, SD, MS or xD. Read on for the reasons. A corollary to that is buy plenty of rechargeable batteries. If your camera uses a proprietary battery buy at least a second one and keep it charged/rotated.

2. Always shoot in the highest quality/resolution JPEG possible (native resolution, not interpolated as some cameras have, that’s a farce), or RAW if you have a DSLR and will be using an advanced workflow that handles RAW well (Aperture, Lightroom, Photoshop, or asset management.)
Because… You never know how timeless, unique or otherwise valuable the images that you (or your family) capture may be. You can always throw them away after the shoot if you determine otherwise, which is a parallel to point #3. If the only purpose for your images will be 4X6 prints, maybe you can ignore that point… Maybe.

3. SHOOT! When in doubt, shoot! The only real soft expense involved in shooting more than less is the potential time it may take to wade through the images after the shoot. The main hardware expense involved in this philosophy is a one-time investment in larger media than you maybe would buy if you were far more conservative (…and hard drive space.) For just around the house use, not factoring in trips or remote events, you can probably do fine on 256MB. But the second you walk out that door, the thing you have to realize is, you can’t go to the corner gas station and buy a roll of “film” (but you can go to WalMart and buy more media :) , so you have to plan ahead and make sure you’ll have enough media to capture the event or trip. Which leads to point #4.

CF Media

4. Keep your media cleared off. Don’t leave images on your card for months or even weeks. This does 2 things; helps you properly file or tag your images when you import them because the event is only a few days or a week old and you’re less likely to look at an image and have no clue what it is. The other thing it does is help you get the most mileage possible out of the media you do own because you will most likely have all the space available when you go to that event.

5. Backup your images on CD and some other form of live media i.e. a secondary and/or dedicated hard drive (besides wherever you have your primary library stored) or website or something, CDs are not reliable as the sole backup of your life images – do not trust them. They may make a fair off-site backup, which is another strategy to seriously consider – storing at least CDs of your library at a family members house. With the cost of media, it’s very affordable to (and inexcusable to not:) have off-site backups, which means unless your entire town is struck by a natural disaster, you should have something to fall back on if a major catastrophe befalls your dwelling.

6. Keep the time and date set correctly on your camera. Metadata is only good if it’s accurate. When is as important to me as what and where. If you are using rechargeable AA’s this is a real factor to stay on top of. If I don’t use my C730UZ within 7-10 days, those NiMH batts are prone to running dead on me and then my clock is reset and I’ve added another 50 images with the date of 01/01/00 and time of 12:00 am.